Youth Pro Model HK47

Birch. Softer than maple and more forgiving of mis-hits; hardens with use. A good choice for a first wood bat and for younger players.

Maple. Dense and hard, the most common pro wood. Hits hard and holds up when the player squares the ball up; breaks rather than flakes when mis-hit. Quality varies a lot by maker.

Tip: Maple from a good maker is the best wood bat money can buy; maple from a cheap one is the worst.

Ash. Light and flexible with visible grain; flakes over time. Less common now.

Drop is length minus weight: a 30 in, 20 oz bat is a -10. A bigger drop number means a lighter bat for its length. Younger players use -10 to -13; USSSA 13U is usually capped at -5; high school and college are -3.

Tip: Check the drop your league allows before you look at anything else.

A thinner barrel (under about 2.45 in on a wood bat), with less wood to hit with. Its size does not decide the balance: some skinny-barrel bats are end-loaded.

A handle under about 0.93 in. It whips through the zone and feels fast, but it stings more on mis-hits and, in wood, breaks more easily. Common on pro models.

Tip: Thin handles and young hands do not mix well in cold weather; expect sting.

A traditional round knob. The simplest feel and what most beginners should start with.

Weight is spread evenly, so the bat feels lighter than its number. A player who uses the knob or handle to deliver the barrel often needs the weight balanced or down toward the hands. Balance is not barrel size: some big-barrel bats are balanced.

Tip: Which one is right depends on your player and how consistently they deliver the barrel.

An ink dot on the handle shows the maker tested the grain slope. It is required for maple and birch bats used in pro ball and is a good sign of wood selection on any bat.