SCVBBII

Ash. Light and flexible with visible grain; flakes over time. Less common now.

Maple. Dense and hard, the most common pro wood. Hits hard and holds up when the player squares the ball up; breaks rather than flakes when mis-hit. Quality varies a lot by maker.

Tip: Maple from a good maker is the best wood bat money can buy; maple from a cheap one is the worst.

Birch. Softer than maple and more forgiving of mis-hits; hardens with use. A good choice for a first wood bat and for younger players.

Drop is length minus weight: a 30 in, 20 oz bat is a -10. A bigger drop number means a lighter bat for its length. Younger players use -10 to -13; USSSA 13U is usually capped at -5; high school and college are -3.

Tip: Check the drop your league allows before you look at anything else.

The middle of the range (about 2.45 to 2.55 in). Most pro turn models live here.

Tip: A safe default when you are not sure.

A handle near 1 in or more. It feels closer to a metal bat, takes sting out of mis-hits, and in wood it lasts longer. Makers recommend it for players moving from metal to wood.

Tip: If your player is switching from metal to wood, start here.

A traditional round knob. The simplest feel and what most beginners should start with.

Weight is spread evenly, so the bat feels lighter than its number. A player who uses the knob or handle to deliver the barrel often needs the weight balanced or down toward the hands. Balance is not barrel size: some big-barrel bats are balanced.

Tip: Which one is right depends on your player and how consistently they deliver the barrel.