Tater-IF1 Infield Fungo Bat

Dense and hard, the most common pro wood. Hits hard and holds up when the player squares the ball up; breaks rather than flakes when mis-hit. Quality varies a lot by maker.

Tip: Maple from a good maker is the best wood bat money can buy; maple from a cheap one is the worst.

A thinner barrel (under about 2.45 in on a wood bat), with less wood to hit with. Its size does not decide the balance: some skinny-barrel bats are end-loaded.

A handle near 1 in or more. It feels closer to a metal bat, takes sting out of mis-hits, and in wood it lasts longer. Makers recommend it for players moving from metal to wood.

Tip: If your player is switching from metal to wood, start here.

The handle widens into the knob like the bell of a trumpet. Players who choke up or want leverage like it; it also keeps the bottom hand from sliding off. Popular from high school up.

Weight is spread evenly, so the bat feels lighter than its number. A player who uses the knob or handle to deliver the barrel often needs the weight balanced or down toward the hands. Balance is not barrel size: some big-barrel bats are balanced.

Tip: Which one is right depends on your player and how consistently they deliver the barrel.

An ink dot on the handle shows the maker tested the grain slope. It is required for maple and birch bats used in pro ball and is a good sign of wood selection on any bat.