Pro Player CM3XR

Birch. Softer than maple and more forgiving of mis-hits; hardens with use. A good choice for a first wood bat and for younger players.

Maple. Dense and hard, the most common pro wood. Hits hard and holds up when the player squares the ball up; breaks rather than flakes when mis-hit. Quality varies a lot by maker.

Tip: Maple from a good maker is the best wood bat money can buy; maple from a cheap one is the worst.

Drop is length minus weight: a 30 in, 20 oz bat is a -10. A bigger drop number means a lighter bat for its length. Younger players use -10 to -13; USSSA 13U is usually capped at -5; high school and college are -3.

Tip: Check the drop your league allows before you look at anything else.

A thinner barrel (under about 2.45 in on a wood bat), with less wood to hit with. Its size does not decide the balance: some skinny-barrel bats are end-loaded.

About 0.93 to 0.96 in. The usual choice: enough whip, enough strength.

Tip: Most players never need to think about this one.

An angled, one-sided handle shaped like an axe. It lets the bat rotate through contact and reduces wrist and hand torque; makers recommend it for bat speed and for players who get sore hands.

Tip: Worth a try for a player who complains of hand or wrist pain.

Weight is spread evenly, so the bat feels lighter than its number. A player who uses the knob or handle to deliver the barrel often needs the weight balanced or down toward the hands. Balance is not barrel size: some big-barrel bats are balanced.

Tip: Which one is right depends on your player and how consistently they deliver the barrel.