DT110-SD

Birch. Softer than maple and more forgiving of mis-hits; hardens with use. A good choice for a first wood bat and for younger players.

Maple. Dense and hard, the most common pro wood. Hits hard and holds up when the player squares the ball up; breaks rather than flakes when mis-hit. Quality varies a lot by maker.

Tip: Maple from a good maker is the best wood bat money can buy; maple from a cheap one is the worst.

A thinner barrel (under about 2.45 in on a wood bat), with less wood to hit with. Its size does not decide the balance: some skinny-barrel bats are end-loaded.

A handle near 1 in or more. It feels closer to a metal bat, takes sting out of mis-hits, and in wood it lasts longer. Makers recommend it for players moving from metal to wood.

Tip: If your player is switching from metal to wood, start here.

The handle widens into the knob like the bell of a trumpet. Players who choke up or want leverage like it; it also keeps the bottom hand from sliding off. Popular from high school up.

Weight is spread evenly, so the bat feels lighter than its number. A player who uses the knob or handle to deliver the barrel often needs the weight balanced or down toward the hands. Balance is not barrel size: some big-barrel bats are balanced.

Tip: Which one is right depends on your player and how consistently they deliver the barrel.