Juiced Custom Ni13

Birch. Softer than maple and more forgiving of mis-hits; hardens with use. A good choice for a first wood bat and for younger players.

Maple. Dense and hard, the most common pro wood. Hits hard and holds up when the player squares the ball up; breaks rather than flakes when mis-hit. Quality varies a lot by maker.

Tip: Maple from a good maker is the best wood bat money can buy; maple from a cheap one is the worst.

Drop is length minus weight: a 30 in, 20 oz bat is a -10. A bigger drop number means a lighter bat for its length. Younger players use -10 to -13; USSSA 13U is usually capped at -5; high school and college are -3.

Tip: Check the drop your league allows before you look at anything else.

A big barrel (about 2.56 in and up) gives the most hitting surface. Its size does not decide the balance: some big-barrel bats are balanced.

A handle under about 0.93 in. It whips through the zone and feels fast, but it stings more on mis-hits and, in wood, breaks more easily. Common on pro models.

Tip: Thin handles and young hands do not mix well in cold weather; expect sting.

A cone-shaped transition from handle to knob, somewhere between standard and flared.

Weight is spread evenly, so the bat feels lighter than its number. A player who uses the knob or handle to deliver the barrel often needs the weight balanced or down toward the hands. Balance is not barrel size: some big-barrel bats are balanced.

Tip: Which one is right depends on your player and how consistently they deliver the barrel.